Just another Italian weekend....Scaling a mountain!
A few weeks ago my friend and Vicenza colleague, Luisa
posted on Instagram a beautiful image of Garda Lake from a hike she completed
while I was off gallivanting at one of the other VGL offices. Upon my return I immediately
ask how I can experience that beauty myself! Apparently it was a guided hike
and she graciously invited me to the next one, once she finalized the date.
Luisa did forewarn me that we would need a harness for a few sections of the
trail for safety purposes as some parts the trail would most likely be narrow.
About 10 years ago I discovered I am kinda afraid of heights.........If I have
the security of a rope and harness I am invincible! Take that away and I am on
my butt scooting my way at snails pace. It has been a long time since I have
tested this theory and with old age.......haha I wondered if my fear had
creeped its way in all aspects of heights. Only way to find out! I told Luisa
to count me in on the next hike!
Two weeks later, a three car convoy to Longarone, and 12
hikers pulled on harnesses and strapped on our helmets. Our two guides had
little English, so thank god for Luisa’s English, similarities between sailing
and climbing harness, my experiences rappelling in the military, and the
visuals to help me understand the instructions given to me. The visuals….the
guides pretty much playing charades to show me instructions was my favorite
because it is quite comical to watch them act out what not to do and what to do
when climbing a mountain! When the tutorial was over and it was time tooooooooo
GO! High ho high ho up the mountain we go! It started out in a dark tunnel with
headlamps! Thank god for helmets as some parts were low and I bumped my helmet
a lot! Afterwards a brisk walk into the forest then around the bend the trail
narrowed and we were on the side of the mountain with a little narrow path we
would take. There was steel rope bolted to the mountain side. Pffff! Have no
fear my harness is here! So off I went clipping and unclipping from rope to
rope around the mountainside! Yes I can do this! If anything it was more of a
hassle securing myself to the mountain, the path wasn’t that narrow!
Clip unclip clip unclip! It took a lot of time to do this
and I had a lot of energy! At one point it was optional to clip onto the rope
and even I was not afraid, so opted continue my hike freely! Until we came to a
halt. Just ahead was a ladder. The
guides each pulled out a longer rope from their packs and were having a
conversation that included pointing in my direction. Body language goes a long
way! Whatever they said I knew it involve the long rope and myself! I figured
out the longer roper was additional safety measures for novice hikers, which
there were four of us. Each pair of
novice hikers was attached to a guide with the long rope. Luisa and I were paired with Ettore Bona and
we were to follow him the remainder of the hike. We would be the last in the
group to go up the ladder. Impatiently waiting my turn I wondered why it was
taking the hikers ahead a long time. It’s just a ladder! Finally it was our
turn, peering up and beyond the ladder and Ettore I now knew what took them so
long. This is when I started to question
what Luisa got me into!!!!!! She never said we would literally be on the SIDE a
mountain with NO trail beneath me!
Ignorance really is bliss. Not knowing what you are about to
do makes it so much easier to begin the journey! Then when you face an obstacle
and there is no turning back you don’t think you just start doing. I will never
forget the many times Jason and I falsely assessed the wind and decided to go
sailing. By the time you are on the water you are IN THE OBSTACLE!!!!! Only
choice is to sail through it and become better sailors. On this day I had no clue I would be hanging
on the side of a cliff and now I am just a wee bit better at rock climbing!
And......I am still invincible!.........with a harness!
Ettore was a great guide. Anytime I would not use my legs or
have tension in my elbows he would yell down at me, “Teresa! No” then
demonstrated what I was doing wrong proceeded with the correct technique. He
was patient and funny and constantly taking pictures. The climb is as much
physical as it is mental figuring out where to place your fingers and toes. It was not 100% rock climbing as there were
many steel hooks to place your feet or hands, but there was definitely moments
I had to think of the placement of my fingers and tippy toes! But the best part
was when you had to pause for numerous reasons, which allowed me to look up,
down, and all around! It was beautiful!
To look below your feet at the rushing river, left towards the town of Longarone and my beloved snow capped mountains, or right and focus on
the dam in the distance. Then look up
and see only rock and sky…..and butts of the hikers in front of me! All of it
was something I have never seen from this angle. It was not a thrill or breathless, it was more
quizzical just taking in the whole experience as one. I was learning, seeing, and viewing things
all new to me, like a child’s sponge-like brain absorbing an insightful new
experience.
Eventually we stopped climbing and were on a wooded trail where
we could take our harnesses off. I am a dork and did a celebratory snatch! We made it!
The
climb up was over and we made our way to our destination: Vajont Dam. Walking towards the dam the handrail had
small colorful squares of cloth nailed to it.
It was so pretty! I love bright colors! But then I was informed that
each square represented a child who died in 1963 when a huge chunk of
mountainside slid into the river flooding the dam and the town of Longarone,
killing over 2000 residents. Each square had the child’s name and age, to
include unborn babies. When we got to
the dam itself there was no water, which I learned it is no longer in use
because of the disaster that could have been avoided. In the distance you can
see portion of Mount Toc where the rock slid into the river. I could explain the disaster, but I think it
is better explained in this article: https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-24464867
. This one has before and after pictures: http://www.environmentandsociety.org/arcadia/expecting-disaster-1963-landslide-vajont-dam.
If you read it you will learn that the construction of the dam is considered
one of the worst man-made environmental disasters. I honestly did not know the extent of the
disaster until writing this blog. It
does not change my experience the day of the hike, but the emotions I have learning
the depths of this tragedy and filtering through my pictures provides another
element to my hiking trip. Perhaps my journey to Vajont Dam has actually ended
with this blog post.
Mount Toc where the rock slid into the river
After a quick look at the dam we stopped to have a beer and
lunch. There are a couple of food trucks
to grab food and beverages so Luisa and I got a celebratory beer, because
apparently even Luisa did not know we would be scaling a mountain! Bruno the other guide and Luisa’s friend’s
husband apparently did not tell her the difficulty level because he knew she could
do the hike and that she would not have done it if she knew. Ignorance really is
bliss! After the beer I opted save my money and eat what I brought: cans of
tuna and apples. Whenever I go hiking I pack food that can be easily packed and
disposed of such as beef jerky, packaged tuna or chicken, fruit, trail
mix. Apparently in Italy eating tuna
from a can is bizarre! It is okay to put tuna on a pizza or pasta in Italy, but
eating it from the can is considered weird! My group had a good laugh at my
expense! I will forever be known as the
Tonne girl!
It was time to head back onto the wooded trail home. No more
climbing, just a brisk walk the mountain! I was disappointed because I really enjoyed
the climb, but at least we were not taking the road back! There are two ways to get to the dam: by a
trail or by road. So we scaled a
mountain to our destined dam when we could have easily driven on the paved
road! But today was about the journey to the destination. I would have never seen life from the side
of a mountain. But more importantly I felt lighter than I had in weeks. When we were climbing all my focus was
placing my fingers and toes in just the right place. I have no clue how long or how high we
climbed but I felt renewed and full of energy!
It was like the clouds in my head dissipated and there was a spring in
my step! Let’s just say I skipped down
the mountain!
After our climb we went to Longarone for more beer and ice
cream. I got a Tiramisu sundae!!!!!!
Sooooooo good! Then we had a couple hour drive back to Vicenza.
Beautiful drive home!!!!!!!
Arriving in my apartment I still felt
weightless, energized, content! The sun was about to set, so I put on my
running shoes and decided to chase the setting sun! Seven miles and hundreds of
pictures later I sat on a bench at a nearby park. I loved this day!
Thank you Luisa for having me as you guest!
Thank you Ettore for being a great guide! Please check out
his sculptures! http://www.ettorebona.it/
To the people lost by the Vajont dam, rest in peace
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